Jumped Ship in Punta Allen !
I've jumped ship in Punta Allen. Actually as I'm finally writing this it's Sunday the 23rd and I'm at a hostel in Playa Del Carmen with my flight booked February 26th.
...Back to the the jumping ship. As was the plan we left where we'd been anchored a couple days after breakfast on Friday, February 21st to head (motor) on the inside of the reef to Casa Blanca fishing lodge on the south side of Bahia De La Ascension. From what it looked like in the cruising guide to me...the 12' deep channel was closer to and just inside the reef which was not the route captain chose to take. I'd learned long ago to keep my mouth shut anytime I was in question about a decision he'd made. Add to this we were hearing new more frequent clanking of the chain inside the wheel binnacle. As we were simply motoring slow and watching the depth sounder which was basically already shallower than 12'.. Suddenly it's keel in the sand and captain turns.. seeking unknown deeper water and goes a bit more before running aground briefly again. At this point he's been doing some hard ruddering this way and that.. Shortly after deciding its a no go and doing an about face the rudder won't turn at a certain point in the direction needed so it's around the other way only to find a similar limit at a certain point. In other words we can't get the boat pointed back to where we had been anchored. He calls out for tools and the compass is removed. ...With a large screw driver I monitor the way too loose chain and keep it from climbing up the underside of the wheel sprocket so it doesn't jam and we are back anchored close to where we'd just left about 2 hours earlier. Initially captain is confident the cables just loosened and simply needs to be retightened. In that process it is discovered the cable, where it's fused to the chain on the port side is frayed which had caused new slack. We tighten it and the loose strands of cable don't fit through the hole at the bottom. The rudder kind of works with maybe trouble in hard ruddering to port. Attempts to cut the strands fail due to dull bolt cutters. It's decided we head across to Punta Allen to see if there might be a place to get 20' of 1/4" stainless steal cable. I say it's doubtful but you never know since it's been almost 20 years when I was there. We anchor on the west side of the 'Punta'. We put the dinghy in and in the process of getting a line to lower the outboard down it happens. First of course the captain is in his anxious impatient mode. He's in the dinghy and after putting the long line used to tie the dinghy on the bow away I move to the stearn. I look around the stern to find a short line to lower the outboard with and am just about to reach down a grab a loose line I see just the right length. Then I hear it.. Basically more of the same B.S. I have grown quite accustom to letting his verbal onslaught of derogatory comments slide by and kept my mouth shut with my desire to tough it out to Rio Dulce Guatemala. This time it's... 'Juuust uuunfasten the... green and white mooring line and tie it onto the outboard and lower it down' in a tone to imply I'm a hopeless idiot? I think due to just how I was feeling and now the new rudder thing I was tired of letting his insulting comments slide. I use the F work and tell him what he is..a rarity for me as I am not much for fowl language. This is followed by well if you don't want to crew anymore you can get off the boat in Belize... To which I answer 'I can get off the boat in Punta Allen'. This kind of startles him but he's too proud to show concern of loosing his crew especially with the new rudder issue to contend with. It's an odd feeling I have.. A feeling off relief even with the fact I've only 40 pesos on me ($3 US) and am not certain any place in a Punta Allen accepts credit cards? . He waits in the dinghy as I quickly pack with feelings of contented peace mingling with the adventure of being dropped off at an end of the road village with $3 . We don't talk as we make our way around the point in the dinghy...I get quite wet as he fails to make any effort to reduce waves in my face. I brought a plastic bag to put my duffle in expecting to get wet. He stops at a dock and not sure what he plans to due I step off with my gear and ask if I should tie off the dinghy. He simply says no. I tell him 'I sincerely wish him the best of luck.' He says you too, and off he goes.
I grab my 3 parcels and find the dock is short of the beach so hop off in water a foot deep and walk up the beach. I notice a VW EuroVan Westfalia with British Columbia plates and say "hola" to the lady inside. Suddenly I loose all concern of jumping ship. Norma is a really cool gypsy lady who's been on the road over 4 months having begun her travels in BC, Canada. I find out she's heading north soon enough and now I need only to find a place to sleep and eat that takes credit cards. She didn't know of any but points out a likely place called Fishermen's Bar and Restaurant .. I walk over and find out they don't. It's the 10 year old son who is the translator who tells me the big hotel a kilometer out of town takes credit cards but he doesn't know of any other place? As I'm walking back to the VW van to talk more with Norma I run into a nice couple from England, Rose and Ross. I ask them about my credit card issue and what do you know..yes the little fishing resort 'Punta Allen Fishing Club' that they are staying at accepts credit cards. I walk with them and book a room. I also find out they are leaving in 2 days and I have another ride option all the way to Playa Del Carmen. In the course of 20 minutes of being dumped at the dock my concerns are gone and I feel my luck simply could not have played out any better. I also get a feeling the luck may not be so kind for the captain? Call it a karma thing? I may never find out as I doubt he would ever reply to an email ? I find myself completely free of guilt for jumping ship. I take the nicest hot shower in a very long time then turn it to cool for a while to cool off. I'm surprised they have WiFi via satellite and I can access spotty slow Internet. There is no mobile coverage in Punta Allen and electricity is locally generated. After a nice diner I go to my nice comfy room. Oddly I have trouble sleeping probably because it's the first time since December 4th there is no subtle motion of a boat?
I start the next day with a really nice breakfast then go walking around the village to see if I can find anything familiar from nearly 20 years ago? Nope.. It's a nice little end of the road town but there is way way more tourism going on than the mid 1990's. There are all kinds of fishing lodges. The village is world renowned for its light tackle salt water fishing for Tarpon, Snook, Bonefish, Permit and more... I stop at Norma's van mentioning it's my 60th birthday and she wants to take me out for coffee which ends up as lemonade followed by coffee at her van. Nicest Birthday since my 50th which I spent in Thailand.
Now....it sounds like I'll be returning to a lot of snow back in Duluth. Though I plan to visit my dear old mom in Minneapolis a while as her 93rd Birthday is in March.
Happy BIrthday John! Life is good, nothing feels better than stepping out and watching good things come our way. Sounds like you made the right choice, no need to be arounds such negativity! Your right lots of snow all over the State. Quite amazing.
ReplyDeleteYeah thanks Janet.. Janet J I'm assuming?
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